From her book Dancing with Ataxia—
The Road to Chimayó
by Erica Lehrer
It’s not that I believe
in miracles
but I set out one morning
to visit a place
where miracles are
believed to happen.
I imagine spooning the
sacred dirt into a bag,
leaving my cane among the
rows of broken
crutches, walkers and
canes left by others
and strolling unaided
into the daylight.
The road to Chimayó drops
into a slot
of the Rio Grande,
snaking past orchards
and fruit stands waiting
for their season.
I take in the views of
the hard red earth
and snow-dusted
exposures, rolling down
the windows to inhale
cold air and meditate
as much as one can while
still driving.
The trip, although
scenic, seems long – too long.
Somewhere, somehow, I
have become part
of a lengthy funeral
procession, the fifth car
behind the hearse. I dare not pass for fear of bad karma,
so I turn the radio off
and my headlights on.
I mouth a prayer for the
deceased, thinking
“What a lovely place to
die!”
Finally, Chimayó, New
Mexico’s answer to Lourdes!
You’ve been, no? Then you
know how its thin air holds you
in a healing embrace, its
land fed by the Sangre de Christo
-- a pilgrimage site of
promise. Inside the adobe sanctuary,
I pause before baby
shoes, prom and graduation photos
of teens lost to drugs or
fast cars, of faces of loved ones
in uniform and,
everywhere, fervent, handwritten prayers.
I stoop to gather my
quota of brown dust,
scooping it into a small
bag and fall to my knees.
Some people eat the dirt,
believing in its curative powers;
Others rub it on
afflicted parts. I think: I will do anything
-ANYTHING – to have my
ease of movement restored.
I watch others come and
go, lost in prayer. The sacred dirt
seems to replenish itself
from below the sanctuary floor.
Then I do an uncharacteristic
thing: I cry. No one notices –
except a man with
weathered skin and kind brown eyes.
When, moments later, I am
unable to get to my feet,
he steps forward and
offers me his arm, which I take.
As my hand closes over
his wrist, I realize
that his arm is
plastic. We walk together
into the blinding
sunlight of the sanctuary’s garden.
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